Starting Seeds Indoors

 If you live in a cooler climate, you will likely need to start some of your seeds indoors. This is when you sprout the seeds inside your house and let them grow for several weeks. Then you transplant the seedlings outside once the last frost date of the spring has passed. 

Since your plants are already partially grown when you put them in the ground, they have a greater chance of survival – which means less plants die, and you get more food! 

Not all seeds need to be started indoors. Some, such as those that grow on vines, need to be planted directly outdoors. You can use this tool to look up the approximate planting times and best planting method for each vegetable based on your location. It's also a good idea to look up a planting calendar published by gardeners in your area. 
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The back of your seed packet will often also tell you when to start your seeds indoors.  

When it’s time to start your seeds, the bare minimum that you need is:  

• Seeds (soak them first!) 
• ​A seed starting medium (more on this in a moment) 
• A container for the seed starting medium 
• ​A clean spray bottle with water
  
  

A seed starting medium is what you plant your seeds in initially. It’s not dirt. It’s a sterile substance that is designed to help seeds germinate quickly and easily. Typically this is peat moss or coconut coir mixed with vermiculite or perlite.  

“Can’t I just use dirt?” You can, but you won’t get the same results. Soil does not have the characteristics that give your seeds the best chance of sprouting. It is compact when wet, which makes it more difficult for fragile seedling roots to grow, and it is not sterile, which means that your seedlings could be killed by an infection. Seed starting mediums are light, airy, and good at retaining moisture for seeds without drowning them.  

Basic materials: seed starting medium, containers, and seeds

If you will be growing your plants in a container, you can start your seeds directly in that container indoors. If reusing old plant pots, you will need to disinfect them first by soaking them in water with a small amount of bleach and rinsing thoroughly. Fill the container with high-quality vegetable potting soil and water it. You can put a thin layer of seed starting medium on top of the soil and plant the seeds in that. Keep the seed starter damp. 

Basil sprouting in a container

If you will be transplanting your seedlings into the ground, you have a plethora of options for seed starting containers, including peat pellets, peat pots, plastic plugs, toilet paper tubes, and reused plastic containers. 
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The easiest option is to buy a tray of peat pellets. This looks like a black container with small brown disks inside. You water the pellets, and the peat inside of them absorbs the water and expands. Then you sow one seed in each pellet. If you go this route, make sure you buy a tray that includes a clear plastic lid to put on top of the container. The pellets are biodegradable and can later be planted directly into the ground. 

Peat pellets are slightly small, however. If you would like your plants to grow larger before you transplant them outdoors, you will need bigger containers straight off the bat. You can use clean plastic cups, yogurt containers, milk jugs etc. Whatever you use, poke holes in the bottom for drainage. Or you can use peat pots, which are great because they are biodegradable. 

You will need to keep your pots/containers in some sort of mini greenhouse like the black lidded trays or a clear plastic storage container. This will keep your seed starter from drying out too quickly. 

A storage bin greenhouse

Unless you are using peat pellets, you will need to buy a seed starting medium. This is usually inexpensive. I use a mix of ½ coconut coir and ½ vermiculite. 

The process is straightforward: 

1. Open your storage container or black tray and set the plastic lid aside.  
2. If using peat pots, I have found that it is best to soak them in water before adding the seed starter. This keeps them from drying out too quickly later. Pour water in the bottom of the tray and soak each side of the pot, but not so much that they start to buckle.  
3. Mix your seed starter.  
4. Use something to scoop your seed starter into the pots/containers.  
5. Pour a small amount of water in the bottom of the tray and allow the seed starter to completely absorb the water through the drainage holes. Don’t leave any water standing at the bottom of the tray.  
6. Stick one seed in each pot. Tweezers work well for this. Follow the instructions on the seed packet regarding how deep to plant the seed - when in doubt, shallower is ALWAYS better! Make sure to somehow label which seeds you planted in which pellets/pots (believe me, you will forget). 
7. Once all the seeds are planted, gently spritz the surface of the seed starter with water. Put the lid on the tray or storage bin and keep it on there. Your mini greenhouse needs to stay closed to keep moisture in. ​

Initially, all your seeds need is constant moisture and warmth. The warmer the soil, the faster they will germinate! Place your seed trays in a warm place away from direct sunlight (which will fry baby seedlings), such as on top of the fridge or drying machine or near a heating vent. Your seeds don’t need to be continually warm...room temperature at times is fine too! 

Do not let your seed starter dry out, ever! It should be moist but not soaking wet. Check the surface of the seed starter in the morning and evening and use the spray bottle if it is slightly dry. In addition, water your pots roughly every other day by pouring water in the bottom of the tray and letting the seed starter absorb it through the drainage hole.  

If using peat pots, check their sides daily. If they are starting to dry out, water them from the bottom. 

It will take a few days for your seeds to sprout. For some plants it takes longer than others.  

The next post will discuss what to do once your seeds start to come up! 
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As always, if you have any questions or tips to share, please comment below!